Red Pines- Brice Praire/Onalaska

Between Lake Onalaska and County Z, off the beaten path in Brice Praire, sits a cozy bar and grill among the red pine trees, named, uh…well…RedPines.  My out of town companions and I put our names in and were given a 20 minute waiting estimate which we spent at the bar watching the Opening Ceremonies of the Sochi Olympics and some weird Russian-themed commercials. 

There was a good mix of folks at Red Pines, families with young kids, extended families with older kids and grandparents, 30-something couples and the ubiquitous Wisconsin bar fly’s easily spotted by their Packer bottle cozies they brought from home.  While not a large establishment, I liked the set-up where my group of 5 could comfortably mingle at the bar without getting in the way of dining patrons.  The homemade cabin décor with large window views of Lake Onalaska and outdoor seating complete with campfire made for an inviting Nort’ Woods atmosphere. Despite it being too dark and cold to really take advantage of those features, you could really feel the rural Wisconsin oozing from the pine-paneled walls.   

At the bar we availed ourselves to the fish-fry staple, Brandy Old Fashioned Sweet.  Their version of the BOFS is quite sweet and strong.  I may have lucked out, though, getting two muddled cherries on the bottom of my glass and one on the toothpick.  Our bartender made sure to really keep the “brandy” in the name, after my first sip made my nostril hair curl a bit.  However it was offset with just enough “sweet” to prevent the booze from overpowering the drink…well done bar-keep, well done.   I give it FOUR nondescript cocktail tumblers.

This Friday Fish special has an extra twist to it since it includes three jumbo shrimp with the two pieces of haddock.  Before the fish came a sweet, tangy “clear” coleslaw with finely cut cabbage, green pepper and carrots.  Call me a purist, but I was raised on the thick, creamy coleslaw that comes with a bite at the end, however, this oil based (versus mayo based) coleslaw was a refreshing variation that would fit in well over summer.  The haddock batter was crisp and the meat flaky and fresh.  Although the fish serving size together was probably the smallest I’ve seen, a thin 5 inches, it was pretty tasty.  The jumbo shrimp were true to name (they were huge) with a nice light breading.  Our choice of potato was either golden, thin, julienned fries or the Red Pines special homemade potato chips.  Both are equally crisp and tasty with a light salting. The chips had enough thickness and crunch to differentiate them from store bought chips and make them a worthy appetizer or side choice.  Topping off the entrée was a crisp-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside piece of garlic flavored Texas Toast.  All in all, Red Pines puts on an affordable fish fry with sensible portion sizes with a focus on quality over quantity.  For those looking to leave the typical AUCE fish fry scene, that invariably leaves you too full of fried fish, guilt and shame; venture to the place between the Red Pines.

Overall the food is a FOUR Buoy given its high quality and diverse offering of seafood

Baus Haus

When looking for recommendations on new fish fry’s in the La Crosse Metro area, it’s always wise to consider the source.  Our source, a long-time area high school and college offensive line coach, has had to “steak” his career on finding his teams good eats for a decent price in noted Wisconsin shit-holes like Whitewater, River Falls and Platteville.  Like a hog to truffles, our man did not disappoint.  

            Located in a storefront on Ward Avenue near the Marcus Cinema sits an old name “Baus House” with a new owner.  Before entering my traveling companions and I expected the classic Wisconsin supper club set-up and feel, but, I thought we had accidentally crashed a wedding reception.  The tables were of the large, temporary, plastic variety you might see set up in a garage for a high school graduation party, but it was clean and tables were set up nicely with candles and everything.  

In the corner by the entrance stood a bare bones bar, serving only beer and wine, just like the kinds you see at office parties, fundraisers and baby showers. Basically, the kind that could only get people business drunk.

            Somewhat disappointed by the ambience, our very nice server reluctantly informed us they were out of perch and walleye, several types of wine (which was not a big deal because it’s wine and we were at a fish fry) but for God’s Sake THEY WERE OUT OF MILLER LITE…..…IN WISCONSIN!!!  Yikes. Fortunately, they had foresight to stock up on the gold-standard of our great state’s craft brews, Spotted Cow, and also had local favorite Downtown Brown on hand.  Given the hop and barley shortage and size of the bar, it was no surprise they didn’t offer brandy Old Fashioned’s.  At this point, I knew we were roughing it.

            That is, until the owner came over to say hello to us and introduce himself.  Turns out, this venture is only a month old, and they only are open on Friday’s for fish.  This guy took over the Baus House name after some questionable management by the previous owner and put his extensive knowledge and experience in the catering business to work.  The slap-dash (but clean and neat) format and tiny bar were a business decision to not invest in an uncertain situation with the building’s new owners. This is when things started to turn around for Baus House.

             Everything here is served AUCE family style in great heaping portions.  First came the coleslaw and bread.  The wheat and white rolls were moist and hot, not even a little dried out, despite being the end of the night.  A thick, creamy coleslaw with larger than usual chunks of cabbage provided a unique texture, but the coleslaw lacked zip.  

With the fish came browned, julienned French fries that were a crisp relief from typical, soft crinkle-cut fare.  The main course and foundation of any fish fry, cod, came out in manageable 5-inch fillets covered in a batter that, while not spicy, still carries a small zing that I have never experienced at a fish fry before and it was awesome!  A simply superb example of how to serve fried fish; unique and plentiful. 

I can’t wait to come back after the new owner nails down some business aspects and applies his talents to creating an atmosphere and ambience worthy of the excellent fish he serves and restore the good Baus House name.

Welcome Fish Fry Freaks!!!

This blog tells a story.  A story about a man.

He is in search of incarnations of a great tradition dating back to the founding days of the great state of Wisconsin in the late 1600's.

Having been blessed with an abundance of lakes and a mighty river left here by THE Glacier, Wisconsin overflowed with fish.  Scaly, squirmy, delicious fish.  

Of course, the many native tribes of our state knew the health and taste benefits of frying fish in egg yolks and semolina, a grain derivative similar to flour, prior to any white man's arrival.

Hearing of such great fried, piscine treasures just south of the Great Lake Gichigami, Frenchmen Jean Nicolet had to investigate.  After a grueling journey from France to Quebec and being the first European to cross Lake Michigan, he reached shore near present day Lambeau Field.  First thing he did was order Packer season tickets (he was number 382 on the wait list).  Second thing he did was look for a fish fry...incidentally he discovered most of Wisconsin in the process.        

As more immigrants arrived, especially those whose Catholic religion forbade meat other than fish on Friday's, the tradition blossomed.  However, once the Catholics got a load of their Scandinavian Protestent neighbor's lutefisk and lefsa (skip to 2:00) they were all, "Ew.  Lets fry the shit of these fish, dig up some potatoes, and slaw some cole; whatever we do it's got to be better than this". Apparently, the Papists had some great chefs and thus began a strong Wisconsin tradition.

This new tradition needed an anchor, a base, a platform to launch Wisconsin into the weekend; enter the Supper Club.  Back in the day, a "member" of the "club" would pay to rent a locker to keep his alcohol of choice (brandy/whiskey) and to keep a standing reservation.  While it sounds high falutin', these supper clubs enabled the middle and working classes to sample the High Life on a budget.

With your limited budget, this blog will guide you to the awesome, average and abominable places for the great end-of-the-work-week celebration known as Friday Fish Fry. (Mainly in the La Crosse region).  Join me as I consume uncomfortable quantities of cod, walleye and bluegill while swilling Brandy Old Fashioned's and enjoy the fellowship of friends and family for your Fish Fry felicity.