Baus Haus

When looking for recommendations on new fish fry’s in the La Crosse Metro area, it’s always wise to consider the source.  Our source, a long-time area high school and college offensive line coach, has had to “steak” his career on finding his teams good eats for a decent price in noted Wisconsin shit-holes like Whitewater, River Falls and Platteville.  Like a hog to truffles, our man did not disappoint.  

            Located in a storefront on Ward Avenue near the Marcus Cinema sits an old name “Baus House” with a new owner.  Before entering my traveling companions and I expected the classic Wisconsin supper club set-up and feel, but, I thought we had accidentally crashed a wedding reception.  The tables were of the large, temporary, plastic variety you might see set up in a garage for a high school graduation party, but it was clean and tables were set up nicely with candles and everything.  

In the corner by the entrance stood a bare bones bar, serving only beer and wine, just like the kinds you see at office parties, fundraisers and baby showers. Basically, the kind that could only get people business drunk.

            Somewhat disappointed by the ambience, our very nice server reluctantly informed us they were out of perch and walleye, several types of wine (which was not a big deal because it’s wine and we were at a fish fry) but for God’s Sake THEY WERE OUT OF MILLER LITE…..…IN WISCONSIN!!!  Yikes. Fortunately, they had foresight to stock up on the gold-standard of our great state’s craft brews, Spotted Cow, and also had local favorite Downtown Brown on hand.  Given the hop and barley shortage and size of the bar, it was no surprise they didn’t offer brandy Old Fashioned’s.  At this point, I knew we were roughing it.

            That is, until the owner came over to say hello to us and introduce himself.  Turns out, this venture is only a month old, and they only are open on Friday’s for fish.  This guy took over the Baus House name after some questionable management by the previous owner and put his extensive knowledge and experience in the catering business to work.  The slap-dash (but clean and neat) format and tiny bar were a business decision to not invest in an uncertain situation with the building’s new owners. This is when things started to turn around for Baus House.

             Everything here is served AUCE family style in great heaping portions.  First came the coleslaw and bread.  The wheat and white rolls were moist and hot, not even a little dried out, despite being the end of the night.  A thick, creamy coleslaw with larger than usual chunks of cabbage provided a unique texture, but the coleslaw lacked zip.  

With the fish came browned, julienned French fries that were a crisp relief from typical, soft crinkle-cut fare.  The main course and foundation of any fish fry, cod, came out in manageable 5-inch fillets covered in a batter that, while not spicy, still carries a small zing that I have never experienced at a fish fry before and it was awesome!  A simply superb example of how to serve fried fish; unique and plentiful. 

I can’t wait to come back after the new owner nails down some business aspects and applies his talents to creating an atmosphere and ambience worthy of the excellent fish he serves and restore the good Baus House name.